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Installation Instructions
for the
Barbed-Pile |
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Barbed-Pile Weather-Stripping System
Directions for installation
(Based on a typical double-hung window installation)
Please refer
anytime to our Glossary of Window Terms
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Before Beginning |
Always wear proper safety protection and follow
tool
manufacturer’s instructions.
Conduct a full installation on one window before
moving to
multiple windows.
With a double-hung window, fully fit the upper
sash first,
including the re-hanging of sash to
weights, before fitting the
lower sash.
Remove barbed-pile prior to painting. |
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Tools Required |
Router with typical base
Hand or power plane
Small adjustable square
Tape measure
¼” mortising bit for router
1/8” by 3/8” slot cutting bit with bearing available from
Advanced Repair Technology
See slot cutting bit
Utility Knife
Optional Tools
Trim Router
Bevel
Belt Sander |
1) Remove upper and lower sash, place on a bench. Remove any existing
weather-stripping system.
2) All repair work to sash and frame should be completed prior to
installation of weather-stripping
See
ART’s Wood Repair System for Details
3) In most cases, a pass or two with a plane along both sides of the stile
will be necessary to accommodate the barbed-pile. If the old metal
weather-stripping was once installed, this step may not be required.
Remember, always conduct a full installation on one window before moving
to multiple windows.
4) Using a router fitted with the recommended slot-cutting bit with
bearing, cut a groove on the edge of stile (portion that faces the
pulley stile when installed in frame) from top to bottom on both sides.
Position groove in 1/4” to 3/8” off the edge to miss the existing plough
originally installed to accommodate the weight cord and pulley. If the
groove is cut too close to the outside edge of the sash, you may create
a weak point prone to damage. If the existing plough is too wide, run
the kerf in the middle of the stile and stop at the plough.
Place the
router base on the exterior face of the upper and lower sash cutting a
groove on the edge closer to the outside of the sash. The meeting rail
will keep you from running the router all the way up the sash if you
place the base on the inside face of the sash. |
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5)
Using the same router setting as noted in #4, cut a groove across the top of
the upper sash and bottom of lower sash.
6) Install the barbed-pile
weather-stripping in the kerf on the top of the upper sash. If the window
frame or sash is out of square you have two options:
Plane upper rail to fit head of frame prior to cutting
kerf
Install a thicker pile such as
ART #803 1/4" barbed-pile
height
7) Install the barbed-pile on the
two edges of sash.
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8)
Hold upper sash in place without reinstalling sash on cords or chains. Move
sash up and check fit side-to-side. Fit should be snug but should move
easily up and down with minimal effort.
9) If sash is too snug, plane more
wood off one or both sides.
10) Re-hang upper sash on counter
weights. Upper sash is completed. Install new or salvaged parting stops. |
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11) The
lower sash will need additional work to install barbed-pile at the meeting
rail. Meeting rails have several different configurations too numerous to
address properly. Re-adjust the depth on the router to position the kerf in
the center of the meeting rail.
12) In many cases it may be
necessary to cut an additional shallow-wider groove to accommodate the
“shoulder” of the barbed-pile. This dimension should be 1/4” in width ,
1/16” in depth. This groove will recess the “shoulder” of the
weather-stripping preventing it from “bumping” the upper meeting rail. This
will require changing the router bit to a ¼” mortising bit. The use of an
additional router is helpful so as not to loose the setting on the
slot-cutting bit. An inexpensive trim router ( laminate trimmer ) can handle
the task.
13) In most cases the
ART #802, our 1/8" barbed-pile,
should suffice. Experimenting with different pile heights at the
meeting-rail will achieve the optimal results.
14) Install the barbed-pile as
noted for upper sash #6 to #9 above.
15) Install the lower sash without
counter weights and check for fit side to side only. In most cases the
meeting rails will not line up. It is now necessary to plane a
certain amount off the bottom of the lower sash.
16) Carefully measure the distance
between the top of the upper meeting rail and the top of the lower meeting
rail. In most cases this distance will be 3/16” plus or minus.
17) Remove lower sash and
barbed-pile. Mark and plane the required amount off bottom of sash. Care
should be taken to match the original bevel of sill (5 to 12 degrees)
18) Re-groove lower sash for the
barbed-pile if necessary.
19) Re-install lower sash with
barbed-pile in place.
20) Meeting rails should line-up
allowing proper closing of existing sash locks. If too high repeat #18. If
too low, install next thickness of pile.
21) Re-hang lower sash on counter
weights. Install new or salvaged interior stop molding.
22) For additional
draught-proofing of lower sash consider replacing the existing inside stop
molding with new. Install the barbed-pile on the edge of the stop molding
touching the inside face of the lower sash. |
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Want
to find out more?
Do you have additional questions? Please
contact us:
Advanced Repair Technology
PO Box 510
Cherry Valley, NY 13320
607-264-9040 office
607-264-8307 fax |
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